Thursday, October 18, 2007

Waiheke - island of wine


Take the time out to analyse Auckland and, in terms of the central city, it really isn't very big at all. In fact, it's probably on a par with somewhere like Amsterdam, with a few more hills, of course. You can easily walk from one side to the other in an hour, crisscrossing through funky areas like Ponsonby and Freeman's Bay, down into the rather soulless CBD, and back up into Parnell via The Domain. Why are we telling you this, we hear you ask. Well, unlike a London or Singapore, sometimes it's necessary to escape the hustle and bustle of central Auckland - it gets a little claustrophobic at times, people drawn to the same bars and restaurants.

Imagine our joy then after learning of the comprehensive ferry service that links Princes Wharf, downtown, with the beautiful islands scattered across the Hauraki Gulf - the water way that feeds into the Pacific. The Gulf is a magnet for summer-holidaying Aucklanders, travelling a few minutes to Browns Island (a low volcanic hill of 60 hectares) or for a few hours across to Colville and northern tip of the Coromandel. For us though it was the lure of Waiheke, the largest island, with its beautiful sandy beaches and, most importantly, booming vineyards. Yep, believe it or not, just one hour's boat trip and 90km from Auckland is a little slice of paradise that boasts some of New Zealand's most coveted wineries. Perfect place for a day trip then!


Aptly named the ``island of wine'', Waiheke is home to, at last count, nearly two dozen vineyards. Small, family run businesses such as Kennedy Point (fantastic 05 Sav Blanc, we stocked up) right through to the hugely commercial and popular Stonyridge and Passage Rock estates. It really is difficult to describe how good life can be when you can bomb around an island in a rented car slurping top vino everywhere you stop. Given that there's hardly a living soul on Waiheke the chance of hitting a pedestrian or fellow motorist is small. Good job too!


We opted for a rusty old Toyota manual - nothing like tryna drive an automatic pissed behind the wheel, they have minds of their own do autos - which provided just enough room for the two of us and a few crates of purchases, should we chose to dabble. And we did. First stop was Kennedy Point. Set back in a wee cove this idyllic spot was as good as it gets. The wine and views alone make the 12,000 mile trek from England to New Zealand worthwhile. Seriously though, the wine is f**king ace! Being a family owned and run vineyard the measures take some beating too. Three towering glasses of different drops for $5. That's two quid and a bit of change to most of you.


Not sure what went down best, the 05 Sav Blanc or 06 Malbec mix (the climate here, coupled with rolling green hills, makes grape growing and mixing a piece of piss, hence they're always trying new things). The Shiraz was a little on the zippy side - we could still distinguish between wines at this point - so we gave it a miss and loaded up with a bottle of each to takeaway.


Goldwater estate came next. Founders, Kim & Jeanette (idle chit chat helps the slurping) pioneered winegrowing on Waiheke Island when they planted the island's first Vinifera vineyard in 1978. Their wines are consistently regarded as among the best in New Zealand gaining international recognition for their intensity and ripe fruit flavours. If it was down to me I'd have given them another award - most booze in a single taster session. We were steaming after slugging back six glasses - the 05 Chardonnay the pick up the bunch (no pun intended).












Next up was Stonyridge, perhaps the island's most commercial. Mind you, the setting is stunning, a beautiful open planned bar (complete with lounge-cum-club feel) sits opposite a, funny this, stony ridge. This place is all about Cabernet blend wine (Cabernet Sav, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and new kid on the NZ block Petit Verdot). It's also one of the few places where you can accompany booze with food. So we did, and plenty of it! The wine wasn't the greatest, perhaps it was a bad day for tasting. but there's usually a silver lining in every cloud, Stonyridge's being that it's flanked by two more, smaller, wineries. 'Hicup.'

We could bore you with, 'hiccup,' anecdotes and soundbites from the afternoon's revelry but we imagine you're getting the drift now. For the record, we managed seven vineyards, I think, ending up in the stunningly located Mudbrick Estate for our grand finale, 'hiccup.' Billed as "one of the most picturesque in the world'' it's home to the deliciously good Shepherds Point Cab Sav Merlot blend - a couple of bottles of which were added to the growing collection in the back of the car, 'hiccup'. Here we toasted absent friends and rolled around in laughter as drunken wedding guests (what a place to have a stag do) joined us for "one more tipple''. What a shame the day's action didn't stop there, 'hiccup'. Instead, I had to reverse the pissing hire car into the back of a stationary ute in front of said wedding party - I was shamefully w**kered by this point - and stagger off in search of the owner, who I, for some strange reason, never managed to find.


Returning the car was a sobering affair - have you ever tried to plead innocence in a drink drive related incident with blackberry coloured teeth, rocking from left to right, with eyes, 'hiccup', staring in the opposite direction. Nor had I till now. F**k! Needless to say we lost the best part of $500 in damages (wrecked the rear bumper and managed to, 'hiccup', mangle some body work - reversing, in neutral!). Have to say though, it was worth every f**king cent!