Saturday, April 07, 2007

Bouddha & Pegasus English School

Tucked away in a quieter corner of Kathmandu is Bodhnath - or Boudha - home to Nepal's most famous and frequented Buddhist monument. Not only did the district, 6km from the drunken late nights of Thamel, allow us a chance to lie low for a few days and catch up on our Zzzzzzzs after several chaotic weeks, but it's also home to Pegasus English School and its endearing principal Kinley Dhendup.

A teacher by profession - not to mention former guide on the Everest circuit - Kinley - was key to our incredible time in Nepal, helping us plan and book everything we achieved without charging the astronomical fees you'd expect. Flights, treks, bus trips, you name it this humble Nepali was able to sort it for us and in return he asked for nothing other than that we enjoyed ourselves to the extreme. And his hospitality didn't stop there, plying us - with the help of his lovely wife Karma and youngest daughter - with Bhutanese rum and momos until our stomachs could take no more!

Pegasus was established in 1999 after two English Rotarians (Pauline and husband Eric) returned from a trip to Nepal with one thing in mind, to assist, in some shape or form, with the education of youngsters. It's quite something to see what they, through hard work and persistence, and their loyal army of friends have achieved in such a small space of time. The school, now catering for children as young as three, is thriving. You only have to look at the faces of the 490 pupils to realise that all young Nepalis want is a chance in life -something we westerners take for granted.

And such is the profile of the school that in 2002 another Englishman, Simon McCarty, began work on the Pegasus Children's Project with a view to improving the lives of some of Kathmandu's 100,000 forgotten street kids. Again, with the help of many, the charity - which works closely with the school - has achieved the seemingly impossible. A new hostel is close to completion which will soon become home to some 50 homeless, many of whom are flying high in the classroom!


It was a great privilege for us to be invited to the school's 8thParent's Day and watch for ourselves how the lives of so many youngsters have been turned around by the continued efforts of others. A day full of music and dance, the occasion both humbled and amazed. To see the children in full flow, not to mention the principal and his eager army of staff, was a privilege and for the first time in four and a half months we both thought about returning to our careers!

As for the stupa, which is adorned with thousands of prayer flags and watched over by the eyes of Buddha himself, it's a great place to visit if you wish to watch hordes of Tibetan pilgrims throwing themselves to the ground in acts of ritual prostration. Though religion holds about as much significance with us as knives and forks do with Indians the sight of these strange folk performing their daily ceremonial circumnavigation of the stupa certainly serves to create a spiritual energy of sorts. Of course, the huge square, on which the stupa is found, is crammed to breaking point with tacky "antique"shops and unsightly hotels.

Outside, and away from the excitable pilgrims, we took an afternoon out to visit Pashupatinath. Located on the shore of the Bagmati river this Hindu site is home to the world's most sacred temple of Shiva (Pashupati). Tens of thousands of pilgrims from all over the world, particularly from Nepal and India pay homage to this temple everyday. Yes it was beautiful but, like Varanasi, we were there to see more than buildings for to die and be cremated on the Bagmati is to be released from the cycles of rebirth. Thus more burning stiffs!

So it was with great disappointment we left Kathmandu and Nepal, but not without one last blow out that ended with our hotel room playing host to a pissed UN diplomat we'd met along the way! Head still sore Surfi?

For more information on Pegasus English School and Pegasus Children'sproject log on to info@worldrhythm.com or http://pegasuschildren.org/




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