North to the Cape

North of the Bay of Islands everything gets quieter as few tourists make it this far. Next up was Doubtless Bay, named so by Captain Cook who, in 1769, sailed by and wrote: ‘’doubtless, a bay’’. Clever guy that Cook! On Marit’s suggestion, wait for it, we stopped in picturesque Mangonui for fish n’ chips. Never thought it would happen, the pair of us sharing newspaper wrapped Hoki and chips. Another stop in Cable Bay – terminus of the 1902 trans-Pacific cable - where we kicked back in the sunshine and swam in the turquoise water.
Jutting out east into the Pacific is the Karikari Peninsula, a crooked arm of unspoiled white sand beaches with barely a soul on them. This place is fantastic, just a case of pull over and pick your spot. After several stops we opted for the aptly named Karikari Peninsula Estate, the country’s most northern vineyard. Here we endured a timeless hour tasting Syrahs, Pinots and Cab Savs, was the sun called it a day over the distant Tasman. Surely there are few vineyards in the world that afford such amazing views – the wine ain’t bad either!

With a bottle of the excellent 06 Syrah tucked under my arm we hit the road for one final push north, to Houhora, a fishing village (if you can even call it that) in Great Exhibition Bay, half way up 90 Mile Beach, on the opposite side. Read about this place in a booklet and carefully played the guilt card when trying to secure a spot of land for a few nights – from where we planned to hit Cape Reinga.

Pitched camp, yards from the Pacific, cracked open the vino and cooked up a feast of venison sausages and steaks before gate-crashing locals for a spot of late night, Corona induced, revelry, the likes of which we’re damn good at these days!

Up early and on the road for the final 100ks leg north to the Cape (Te Rerenga Wairua: the ‘’leaping place of the spirits’’.) Unfortunately the drive offers little insight into what to expect, weaving low through the hills and dunes, before riding high to reveal awesome seascapes where the two seas meet.

Some 60ks north, out in the ocean, sits Three Kings Islands, named by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman, who first came upon them on the eve of Epiphany 1643. Sandwiched between Reinga and Cape Maria van Diemen is a bustling swell, the only indication that the two seas meet. Pretty spectacular.

Mind you, nothing beats the final 20km drive, where the Tarmac becomes loose gravel and the real fun begins. Little did we know our old Honda was four wheel drive. The moment this was pointed out the style of driving changed, almost as dramatically as the scenery. That was until, nearing 100kph, I lost control, skidded this way, then that, and came to a grinding halt in a nearby ditch. Bugger! Not to worry, no harm done. Still alive and the motor still works!