Most Aucklanders are guilty of knowing all about Rangitoto without actually having set foot on the island. The low, conical shape of the volcanic mass is rather out of place sat in the Hauraki Gulf, all the other islands so luscious and green. Mind you, at just 600, or so, years old, it’s a wee pup when compared to its siblings – the lack of soil and vegetation creating the rugged, rocky appearance.

It’s just a short 25 minute ferry ride from downtown, directly across the gulf - the island is visible from just about anywhere in mainland Auckland. The island boasts little more than secluded beaches and a good work out for those stupid enough to try and walk the perimeter in six sweaty hours. The terrain is tough, the black lava heating up quickly in the hot sun. Packed a bag full of goodies, though, evidentially, not enough frigging water, again. First up was the 260m summit. An easy climb though for some visitors too much like hard work (why bother?) Stunning panoramic views of the entire gulf – Auckland city always looks good from distance – make the climb worthwhile, especially on a clear day.

After the summit, we set off in search of some seclusion, something we enjoyed to the max during our six hour hike. Nothing but lava, lava and more lava. Certain bays made the walk worth the effort, McKenzie, Boulder and Ship Wreck were all treats in their own right, but by the time we’d stumbled upon the latter we’d given up on catching the last ferry and were reluctantly preparing for a night under the stars (there’s literally sweet fa on the island). Much appreciated slice of good fortune when, with an hour left till last boat departs, we stumbled upon two litres of unopened, cool drinking water, at the start of a decent trail, which leads us all the way back to the pontoon.

Shattered – 20 kilometres tip-toeing across lava is a tad tiring – we toasted our stupidity with an ice cold Heineken as the ferry ploughed its way across a choppy gulf. The hot, soapy bath at the other end never felt so good!