Knew the trip north to this 130 million year old expanse of wilderness (accounts on age are conflicting with some suggesting it's actually more than 150m) would be a toughie - and so it proved. A 5am taxi swept us from the steps of our Melaka hostel and dropped us smack bang in the heart of KL well ahead of morning rush hour. There we boarded a bus, for a four hour run to Jerantut, that seemed to house more Dutchies than the country itself. A three hour boat ride - another upturned tree - up the Temberling river proved to be the day's highlight. But even then the luxury of life-jackets posing as cushions couldn't resucitate our numb cheeks!
That aside this environment remains as it always has done, untouched by ice ages, one of the world's most pristine primary rainforests. On the promise of catching many exotic and rare animals in their habitats we signed up for a late night jeep safari. Regrettably the only thing we saw during two hours of bone crunching in the back of a three cyclinder skip were a few cows, a monkey and a spider. Oh, and there was a snow leopard too - so we were told!
The four of us holed up in the village of Kuala Tahan, a 20 second punt across the river from the jungle, Marit and I grateful that we'd been talked out of plumbing for a bog standard hut by Ina. A/C really is necessary such is the humidity and intensity of mosquitoes - this is of course their domain! Little to do at night except stroll down to the riverbank for a plate of locally cooked rice and swig back a few cans of beer - redeemed from the only resort in the immediate area for astronomical rates.
While the Robens opted for a cool down period Kris, his normal defiant self, stuck two fingers up at the humidity and, rather stupidly, opted to climb up to Bukit Indah in search of the stunning panoramic views it casts over the entire jungle. Tough but rewarding.
Much screaming and shouting ensued as we first tried to burn, then opted to pull, the buggers off our bleeding skin. No sooner had one been removed than another, bigger blood sucking bastard was working its way inside our boots. Needless to say paranoia set in and our pants were soon round our ankles as we embarked on the necessary crotch checks!
Bedbugs were the last straw - this was after all supposed to be a relaxing two final weeks. The four of us agreed unanimously to cut short our stay to allow for an extra day on Tioman, an idylic island - 50km off the south east coast - in the South China Sea.
This, however, meant an overnight stop in Kuantan which we soon came to realise, as soon as we'd clocked the Negeri state mosque, wasn't going to be the best place for an overnighter!

After hours of aimless walking - it was India all over with everyone pointing us in different directions - the four of us resigned ourselves to soft drinks and yet more rice as we joined a party of "ninja turtles" for their sunset slap up
No comments:
Post a Comment