Langkawi comprises a group of 99 tropical islands lying off the northwestern coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The perfect place, we thought, to start the final month of our trip!
The islands are richly blessed with a heritage of fabulous myths and legends: of ogres and gigantic birds, warriors and fairy princesses, battles and romance. But it's as a natural paradise, these islands are perhaps unmatched anywhere else we've visited. With a geological history dating back 500 million odd years, the islands are decorated with unique rock formations, while dark and unnerving caves, with their stunning stalactites and stalagmites, make for a welcome retreat from the sun-baked beaches. Clear, emerald waters host every watersport imaginable and a magical world of marine life is just a shortboat ride away. Better still is the fact everything is tax-free, hence the nickname, derived by mainlanders, "Duty-Free Island".
Landed after short hour-long boat ride from Satun, in the deep southwest of Thailand. Given the expense of accommodation - amazing five star hotels boasting private beaches dominate Langkawi - we were lucky to happen on Gecko Guesthouse, Pantai Tengah beach, with spacious rooms for three quid. The place has a decent bar which plays host to much of the area's early-night drinking. Anyway, that's irrelevant. It's the island you want to here about, right?
Given the size of the mainland - comparable with the Isle of Wight -we didn't need convincing that a motorbike was the best way to explore. Okay, so it was a scooter, but it was bloody fast, 110kph! So, dressed like a couple of Mardi Gras queers - helmets are mandatory- we embarked on a "Kris and Marit tour", clocking up 230km in the process. Unfortunately, nothing is perfect. Our blowout halfway up Mt Raya is proof of that! Thankfully our fortunes were revered by a
lovely local family who, after we'd descended much of the island's highest peak by foot, tended to our needs while calling for aid.
lovely local family who, after we'd descended much of the island's highest peak by foot, tended to our needs while calling for aid.
Not only does Langkawi boast such natural diversity the Malaysian government has built the world's steepest cable car to allow visitors to see it all. With sweaty feet and palms - it's real high guys, real high - we jumped in one of the little transparent boxes for our 2km ride to the summit of Mt. Machincang. And what is there to say? Nothing, the views speak for themselves. East, the Thai mainland, north, Thai islands of Khao Lak and Lanta. And west, on a clearer day, The Andamans. All this provided by engineering feats that do little to stop the knees trembling!
With hammocks in tow we journeyed on. Stopping here and there to laze on a beach, bath under a waterfall, or dine at one of Langkawi's superb restaurants. Tapas and chilled beers amidst the class and money at Telaga mariner. Kick-arse mojitos at the exclusive Sunsatra - which is home to one of the craziest, and coolest, toilets we've ever seen. And simple, but tasty, Malayan dishes washed down with the freshest of juices at Red Tomato.
Thought we'd made a mistake coming here, bit upmarket and all. On the ontrary, it's great. The perfect place to chill and relax, read a book, or....hang on, doesn't this all sound a bit, predictable. Yep. It's a hard life this travel lark.