Four days is never long enough to truly appreciate a new destination, but when it's an island where scientists and explorers are forever unearthing new species of plant and wildlife it's impossible to know where to start!
So, it was on the recommendation of our drunken Malayan friends we packed the bags and set off in search of Bako, the province's oldest national park. Though small, just 2,727 hectares, it's home to some of Borneo's most diverse geography - jungle, rain forest, mangrove, not to mention the beautifully remote beaches that protrude into the South China Sea. Hence why you need to charter a boat to get yourself there!
"Bako is blessed with an incredible array of vegetation types, many of which you won't find anywhere else in Borneo", says the visitor's guide! It's also home to the rare, and protected, Proboscis monkey, a species endemic to the islands and found nowhere else in the world. They're identified by their huge nose - and in many cases bright pink, and permanently stiff, penises - which, rather amusingly, has resulted in the nickname "The Dutchman". Marit for some reason failed to see the funny side! Other fascinating animals include the long-tailed Macaques - noisy bar stewards - plantain squirrels and bearded pigs (which Marit, rather unkindly I thought and more out of revenge because of my continuous "Dutchman" jokes, likened me to).
Given the size of the reserve we were never going to see it all, but we tried. We clocked up kilometre after kilometre as we trekked deep into the park - following beautiful trails, done so professionally you hardly knew they were there - to catch a glimpse of some of the wildlife. And the hard worked paid off. We managed to catch a "Dutchman" - ugly things they are too! Alas no erect willy! We took time out to swim, alone, in the South China Sea. Climbed incredible rock formations for amazing views of the coastline and adjoining jungle. We even happened upon waterfalls, which had somehow defied the surrounding landscape to create the very kind of idyllic oasis you dream of finding in such environments.
Shame it all had to come to an end really. But it does. So, we found ourselves back in Kuching for a night before heading back north to the Malaysian peninsula to rendez-vous with Marit's parents. Of course, being the last night of our adventures alone we were sure to celebrate in style. And we did. Splashing out on a fancy meal at the up-market "Blah Blah Blah" restaurant. Typically we ordered too much - cheese stuffed ostrich roles, deer pan fried in ginger, bean curd marinated chicken wings and tempura vegetables to name but a few dishes - washed down with a champagne bucket stacked full of chilled Tiger. Hmmm, can still taste the ostrich!
