Sikkim

And so it was, after a relaxing week among the tea plantations of Darjeeling we set out in search of the Tibetan lamas and ancient monastries (gompas) for which the north eastern state of Sikkim is famous.

Though this primative and peaceful state - from where you see the looming profile of Mt Khangchendzonga anywhere - passed to India during independence in 1947 it's still motivated by the fear of neighbouring China (who wouldn't these days) and as a consequence has attracted investment on a mass scale - in roads, hydro-power, local industry and liquor production - from the Indian government. Yet the local government remains sceptical of outsiders and all foreigners are required to get hold of an entry permit allowing a max stay of 15 days.

But it's easy to secure the permit, and more than worth it! The moment our shared jeep (it never fails to amaze us how many Indians you can cram into a four-wheeler) crossed the check-point into West Sikkim there was a noticeable change. The streets of Jorethang are litter and faeces free, the buildings completed and you can even hear yourself think. A million miles away from the India we'd come to love, and hate!

The five hour road trip to Yuksom, and the start of our first Himalayan trek, passed by in a heartbeat courtesy of stunning views as our jeep weaved its way through deep gorges and plunged head first into steep valleys. Several times we stopped to stare in awe at the way wooden shacks cling to the terraced landscape and to take chai next to towering waterfalls that feed the state's ancient Rangeet River.