Kathmandu

Mounting death tolls and Maoist extremists aside, Nepal's a wonderful place. Difficult to describe how good it felt to spend several days leisurely exploring the delights of Kathmandu.

On first impressions (ie, trudging two kilometres into the city centre after a day and a half aboard the Pigmy Express) Nepal's capital is worthy of its tag as "Asia's most polluted city". Dilapidated buildings teeter on the point of collapse, beggars and rickshaw drivers mob unwitting crowds and diesel fumes give the air a metallic taste. But all the negativity stops there coz Kathmandu is a fabled city of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples. It reeks of history and culture and can be bewitching to all who visit.

Given the arduous few days travel we endured to get here, you would forgive us the luxury of a hotel room complete with piping hot shower and, wait for it, bath! Tucked away near the city's famous Durbar Square - a complex of palaces, courtyards and temples dating back to the 12th and 18th centuries - our six quid a night home was perfectly placed on the outskirts of Thamel, a mecca for travellers in search of a good drink and decent feed!

Thamel would rival Bangkok's Kao San Road for colour and life. It's mazy network of narrow streets offer everything from cheap travel agents to Pashmiri silks and yak wool, from cut-price outdoor gear to German bakeries. It's easy to get lost, and we did, in this hot pot of bars, restaurants and shops. Institutions such as the Kathmandu Guest House, Everest Steak House and K-Too Bar provide ample opportunity to quaff cheap chilled beer and over-indulge on red meat! And for the gamblers out there, well Kathmandu is home to numerous casinos, all of which welcome tourists with open arms and ply them, to their downfall, with free booze. Fortunately for us Marit knows when to say "enough"and we pocketed more than 5000 Rupees during one drunken night amidst the black jack tables!

Meanwhile, the surrounding valley is punctuated with countless shrines, temples, palaces and charming old bazaars. And the city deserves a special mention for its very own "live in" goddess, Kumari, who, though seldom seen, is venerated by all. (Interested parties note, the said Kumari is selected at age five and remains "goddess"until her period starts when she rejoins the real world).