Dzongri trek - Day 2 - Sajan to Tsokha

Rudely awoken on day two by the constant clanging of a yak's bell. Apparently during the night one of the dumb bovines (to be more accurate our pack carriers were Dzos, a male hybrid of a yak and a domesticated cow) had hiked up the hill to graze on tall grass next to our tents - the bar steward! Still, it's difficult to stay mad when, as you unzip the tent flap to boot the 1000lb beast between the bullocks, you're greeted by a smiling porter bearing gifts such as piping hot tea!

There's nothing like a strip wash in sub-zero temperatures to motivate the soul, so it wasn't long before the group was rallying around the dying embers of the previous night's fire. A hearty breakfast -pancakes, boiled eggs, cereal, coffee, you name it Mingma the cook pulled it out the freezing air - digested we were soon on our way, a steep 6km section our test for the day.

The morning started with a short descent down to a jaw-dropping ravine where, one by one, we took turns inching across a smart looking suspension bridge. A quick breather allowed us to take on water before embarking on one of the toughest parts of the hike - a gruelling two hour uphill climb to the tiny village of Bakhim (which sits at 2900m). This was hard work, but fuelled by dodgy Indian chocolate bars we all made it - before collapsing in a sweaty smelly heap!

But just five minutes later we were back on our feet and chasing the porter's shadows (these guys really are super-human!) up the final 2km incline and into the picturesque village of Tsokha, where frail wooden huts would be our home for the night, the designated point for a spot of acclimatisation.

Yet even another mighty lunch couldn't raise the spirits - everywhere we looked we saw snow. Not normal snow though. We're talking the kindof snow that buries unsuspecting mountaineers and destroys Alpineinfrastructure. The type of snow that breeds disaster movies and saysto you "venture forth if you dare"!