Coming down - day 4 & 5

Day 4: Dzongri to Tsokha

After another crap night's sleep - there's nothing funny about needing a pee at three in the morning at the top of a snow-capped mountain - courtesy of the cold (from which a combination of hot water bottles and "momo moments" couldn't rescue us) we pulled on wet clothes and readied ourselves for the morning descent to Tsokha. Again our cook performed minor miracles to ensure we were suitably fed and watered, while the porters (Gajendra, Karma, Bal Kumar, Jag Man and Mon Bahadurall of whom deserve a mention) busied themselves preparing bottled water and packing away equipment.

This was no mean feat - the only trail being the one we'd forged the day before that had frozen overnight - complicated by the fact the first aid kit had already made the journey down with Pip and Alex (Kris had badly pulled a calf muscle during the ascent and the doubled dosage of x-rated painkillers he took to carry him to the summit had long since worn off). But showing the kind of grit and determination that had seen the team to the top, not to mention the thought of a thirst-quenching beer and warm fire at Mama Chang's Tea Shop, the team managed to descend the icy trail down to Tsokha in less than four hours.

Painkillers ingested and wrapped in warm clothes, the group headed straight for Mama Changs where began an afternoon of reminiscing, defrosting and, most importantly, drinking! Local rum warmed the innards, Sikkimese Tumba (a rather strange beer made from millet and served warm) massaged muscles and Chang (rice beer) caressed the soul. Needless to say the afternoon ended in delirium as the altitude, and indeed alcohol, got the better of these weary travellers!

Day 5: Tsokha to Yuksom

There's nothing funny about a hangover at altitude. Put plainly, it hurts! Even the clear skies above (that framed the surrounding landscape in the most amazing blue) couldn't rescue Kris from his self-imposed sentence of pain - when everyone else left for dinner he stayed on to ensure Mama Chang would have her own headache, how to replenish her beer supplies!

But this time it was the thought of warm showers and clean clothes that fuelled those weary limbs. With the yaks back in tow the 16km hike back to Yuksom was merely a formality and even with a 40-minute lunch break the gang managed to cover the distance in less than four hours. Thankfully Alex made it down the mountain safely and, along with Pip, was able to join

Roland, Marit and I for a well earned toast. And a great trip - we prefer to call it an expedition - was rounded off in true Sikkim style, with an invite by organiser Binay Limboo to join his family for an evening meal.

In hindsight, this was a trip that will stick long in the memory. Everyone, the porters, cook, guide, shit even the yaks, deserve a pat on the back for helping us reach our goal. Pah, Himalaya! Bring onNepal!