Hyderabad, Golconda Fort & Tombs of the Qutb Shah Kings

Two days in Aurangabad is enough, more than enough in fact. Christ, even the small task of onward rail tickets to Hyderabad proved a thankless task as we got our first taste of Indian queuing. Put simply the impatient slackers don't! It's a free for all. A fight for survival and the absolute test of patience and stamina. The small little buggers wriggle past you from every possible angle, shouting and screaming as they frantically wave about documents and passports (yes, it really is an anally retentive system requiring you to fill out forms backed up with passport details and cash withdrawl statements) in a bid to have their requests authorised before the clerk takes a "chai break". And all the time beggars are pulling at your clothes in search of that eluding rupee. A farce, a bloody farce!

Fortunately the second rail trip was free of freedom fighters, thus allowing us an excellent night's sleep during the 15 hour trip to Hyderabad - "Pearl city". Now this place is a treat to be in, despite the problems trying to secure a bed for the night. After several hours of walking we were forced to say "yes" to a flee-bitten hovel in which the bed sheets were stained with bird shit (work that one out) and the squat toilet was home to a new strain of super virus.

But once out on the streets the city soon charms. The smell of chai and sweet milky coffee (that has become an Indian institution) hit you like a brick wall, while the city's thousands of bangle and jewellery sellers will do anything to secure a little business. Big Buddah dominates the city's beautiful lake, while exploring the many bazaars, selling everything from spices to toothbrushes, are a memorable experience.

Home of the Biriyani, Hyderabad boast fine restaurants of all shape and size and we manged to dote on our tummies during our four day stay with some stunning Indian cusine. Aside from the beautiful mosques and minarets that dominate the city skyline, Hyderabad is home to Golconda Fort, one of the most stunning fortress complexes in the whole of India. The Fort dates back to the early 13th century, when this south eastern part of the country was ruled by the Kakatiyas. The bulk of the ruins of this fort, date from the time of the Qutub Shahi kings, who had ruled this area in the 16th and 17th century. The fortress is built on a granite hill 120 metres high, surrounded by massive ramparts.

Golconda consists of four distinct forts with a 10km long outer wall having 87 semi circular bastions; some still mounted with cannons, eight gateways, four drawbridges and number of royal chambers and halls, temples, mosques, magazines and stables inside.